Haines Knob Handwovens
   Haines Knob Handwovens

collapsed weaves                                             

By using yarns that shrink at different rates, different textures emerge after washing and drying. Think seersucker.  For the scarves below, wool and tencel are woven in what amount to two separate layers with minimal interlacing so that each fiber can shrink, or not, on its own. Technically, this weave structure is called deflected double weave. Wool shrinks quite a bit, while tencel, which is a man-made, plant-based fiber similar to rayon (but more ecologically friendly) hardly shrinks at all. So, the 'excess' fabric of the non-shrunk tencel sections pucker as they are pulled by the shrinking wool. 

 

In the first example below, no wool is used in the weft, so the tencel cascades in rullfes between the wool warp stripes. In the second example, wool wefts cross every few picks to form puffly pockets. You first see the  scarf under tension on the loom, then as finished. In each case the fibers are a merino/silk blend (shrinking) and tencel (non-shrinking). Overall the takeup is about 25 percent .

 

 

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